I tend to plan most of my sewing projects before buying the fabric for them. This allows me to co- ordinate the garments I make into a cohesive wardrobe (or at least that’s the intention!) It also means I can calculate the amount of fabric I need and write a list of all the notions I need to pick up, which makes thing more efficient. Occasionally, however, a fabric is so irresistible that I simply have to nab it there and then and worry later about what it is destined to become. That was the case with this duck-egg blue coating. It had me at the colour.
It is actually a duffel wool and incredibly thick with a short velvety pile in a herringbone pattern and apparently the exact wool that Burberry have previously used to make their duffel coats ( ooo how fancy! hehe). I was happy the coating was so thick as it meant I didn’t need to worry about underlining it (I like my coats super-duper cosy so any regular coating gets an extra layer) this meant less construction time and less expense, splendid! However it is pretty bulky and dense and so I knew I would have to be a bit careful about the design of coat I chose. The thickness couldn’t really cope with any fullness or any fussy details, layers translated instantly to lumps.
I loved this coat from Kate Spade and I knew I definitely wanted full length sleeves for a change and some lovely big lapels. I like the slight 1940’s charm that big lapels give a jacket and I just felt like they would work particularly well with this colour especially after I discovered the beautiful Chloe wool coat below.
With these elements in mind I had a browse through some patterns to see if there were any that would be a good fit and I found Simplicity 2311 which fitted the bill perfectly! The only thing I wasn’t keen on were the one piece sleeves- I wanted a proper tailored two piece sleeve so I redrafted them and I nipped the waist in a little more. I would have liked to add the belt but it looked terrible in the fabric- far too bulky- so I left it plain and actually like the simplicity of it without.
Although I could predict the outcome I forced myself to do a bound buttonhole sample just to be sure. Having established that they were definitely not an option I decided to go for giant snaps. I have seen them on lots of the current coats about and although I usually avoid anything that is trending like this when making a key piece as I like to keep big items like coats as classic and timeless as possible, I think they are really cute (I have always loved little poppers) and couldn’t find any buttons that went with the colour of the wool anyway.
I chose the gold- tone ones as I liked the contrast of the gold against the blue but once the coat was constructed the solid gold colour was quite bold and so I thought I would tone them down by adding a splash of duck-egg blue enamel model paint. In the end I had to mix three colours to get a good match but I am so chuffed with the more subtle appearance and the durability of the paint that it was totally worth the effort!
The coat is so so warm it definitely stacks up against my interlined camel hair coat which I have been wearing sooo much this autumn / winter. I still love the colour so much and it actually ties in really well with lots of my wardrobe. Plus it’s such a treat to have something pastel to wear in the winter. The next coat I plan to tackle is a beautiful vintage style beige faux fur. Oh how I love the winter!
Have you made a coat yet this season?