The weather finally warmed up enough here in England for me to wear one of my latest makes, a white cotton broderie anglaise maternity dress. In fact in true British style it went from zero to sixty and warmed up a bit to much to the point where this dress and the lightweight viscose jersey slip I made to wear underneath it was actually too hot! I am planning to quickly whip up another one of these in a printed cotton that doesn’t require a slip! This is the time of year where everyone else does a happy dance and I reach for my fan and parasol
This summer I am more pleased than ever to be able to make my own clothes, my peculiar and extensive requirements when it comes to items of my wardrobe are now joined by the extra challenge of a baby bump and an expanding derriere. I’m not a huge fan of wearing jersey fabrics so wanted to make some woven cotton dresses to see me through the summer of this pregnancy. This dress was a straightforward and speedy one as it is actually just an extended version of my maternity emmeline tee with some elastic channeled at empire level.
Sewing wise I constructed this dress completely the same as a regular emmeline version 3 and then I tried it on and tied a ribbon under my bust and marked where it sat with pins. Then I stitched a strip of bias binding to the inside at this level and channeled through some elastic. I tend to find that visible elastic makes garments look a little unfinished so I wanted a tie to sit over the top. To make sure the tie stayed in the correct position I added four hand-worked loops which I made by working buttonhole stitch over three loops of thread. I like this technique for making loops as they are durable and look pretty. I find that silk buttonhole twist produces the best result but top-stitching or very fine crochet thread (about size 20) are both good too.
Back when I made my embroidered maternity Emmeline tee, which I will be sharing a full tutorial on soon, my bump was small enough not to require the additional length at the front that you need in later pregnancy. In order to achieve that extra length this time I simply extended the pattern evenly to dress length and then adjusted the hem to be maternity friendly once I had the dress on. I had to do this once the elastic was in place as maternity wear needs even more extra length for the bump if it is drawn in at empire level in this manner. The hem leveling process is very similar to that which you would do on a circular skirt only it requires less marking. My hubby helped by measuring the distance up from the floor at the centre front to the raw edge of the fabric and then he measured this same distance at both side seams and the centre back and marked this with pins. Once the dress was back on the workroom table I then smoothed off the curve and removed the excess length at the sides and back. It looks bizarre off the body as you end up with a very curved hemline on the front of the garment but it sits nice and straight once the big bump projects it out. I kept a 4cm hem on the dress incase the front needed lengthening more as the baby grows over this third trimester. Honestly I’m not sure there is quite enough expansion room in this one to last me to the very end but its a good staple one for the next couple of months!
The plain white of this dress works really well with the beautiful scarf I was kindly gifted by John Lewis as part of their Blogger Nursery event. Alongside some other lovely baby bits they sent me this Seraphine nursing scarf. Obviously I can’t comment on it in terms of nursing just yet but its a beautiful shade of periwinkle blue, incredibly soft and nice and big and I have worn it lots already!
Thanks for reading as always